Pico de Gallo

Pico de Gallo. (not my photo)

Do a search for Pico de Gallo and it's likely you'll run across a lot of different recipes for this traditional Mexican condiment.  Many of them claim to be "authentic".  I don't care for the term "authentic" as it relates to food.  In my experience it often means the author has had a dish someone prepared in a way that didn't match up to their expectation.  I fully acknowledge the heritage of this condiment has Mexican roots... but what part of Mexico?  It's a diverse place and a cuisine with a HUGE range of preparations and ingredients.

A few weeks ago I was involved in the assembly of a casual backyard party and thought Pico de Gallo would be an easy side to serve with chips.  Like many people I felt I didn't have the time to pull something together from scratch.  Hoo boy was that a mistake!  I bought a tub from the deli section of my supermarket.  It had absolutely no flavor.  There is no reason on earth to rely on anything but your own taste buds and some fresh ingredients to made this easy condiment.  I like it on chips, grilled fish, and especially shrimp tacos!

Once consistent complaint I have on commercially available versions of this is they use WAY too much tomato and not enough onion and other goodies.  This is a simple dish using simple ingredients and takes about 10 minutes start to finish.  Below are a few tips, observations, and suggestions to get the most flavor possible.

Ingredients:

2 medium whole tomatoes (seeded and chopped fine)
1 medium red onion (chopped fine)
1 jalapeno pepper (seeded and minced, or 2 serrano)
2 cloves garlic (smashed to a paste)
1 tsp olive oil 
1 lime (zest AND juice)
6 sprigs cilantro (leaves and stems minced)
to taste:
kosher salt
fresh ground black pepper

Method:

1.  Combine all ingredients in a bowl and let sit refrigerated for at least an hour or overnight.

Tips:

Use the best tomatoes you can afford.  I'm writing this in peak tomato season and my local farmers market is fantastic.  Many of the vendors have samples of their tomatoes cut up for tasting.  Today I opted for medium sized round beefsteaks on the vine.  The heirloom varieties were sweeter, but also much more expensive.  Off season, I would likely choose Romas.  Take the time to seed them.  The seeds and membranes can be bitter.

My first choice of onion is red.  They have a great bite and the added bonus of their purple color.  White would be my 2nd choice.  Yellow onions are fantastic too, but I prefer the bite of a red or white onion.  I like a ratio of about 1.5:2 tomato to onion by volume.

Peppers: In my research I found some recipes use jalapeno while some used serrano peppers. I have a high heat tolerance so if I were making this just for me I'd go with serranos.  If you are making for a mixed crowd consider opting for the milder jalapeno.

Garlic: I can't stand bottled minced garlic and always choose fresh for this.  It takes very little time to mince a clove of garlic and the flavor difference is huge.  Drizzle a little olive oil on the minced garlic and then using the side of a chefs knife scrape and flatten it into a paste.  I lean toward a variety that has a solid "stem" inside with a slight purple cast. 

Limes: Limes we get in North America often don't have intense flavor in the juice.  This is why I ALWAYS use the zest too.  The rind of the lime contains flavorful oils that adds a bold lime flavor to the mixture.

Salt: I know many people try to limit their salt, but it performs another function besides seasoning.  It helps draw the liquids out of all the other ingredients.  It's important!  Don't skip it.  You don't need much.  Start with a pinch and then adjust the seasoning right before service.

Cilantro:  Many in the culinary world may wince at using the stems.  In this dish I don't mind them.  If the stems are cut finely it adds an earthy tone to the floral finish of this herb.  Many people despise cilantro but without it Pico de Gallo seems flat.

Goulash ala Hops

Hello!  It's been far too long since I've made an installment.  Did you miss me?  I've been working on contract in Florida and I'm glad to return to Portland.  It's harvest time and time to play around in the kitchen!

Freshly harvested Cascade Hops

I consider myself an adventurous foodie and I'm always looking for new things to try in the kitchen. Hops are in season here in Oregon and a friend of mine raised a crop off from a first-year start obtained early this spring.  Aren't they pretty?

Hops are not what you think of as something to eat and are more commonly used as a bittering agent in the production of beer.  Since one of my favorite types of beer is an extremely hoppy IPA it got me thinking about how it might translate as a flavoring in food preparation.  I decided to experiment.  I'll tell you now that you DON'T want to eat one of these flowers raw.  They are indescribably bitter.  I did a couple experimental dishes and this is what I've learned.

My first experiment was a batch of chicken and dumplings.  I wanted something fairly simple to make tasting the hops easier.  I was worried they might get lost if I seasoned too heavily.  That was a mistake.  I added five or so hop buds to the stew as it simmered.  The dish picked up a distinct hop flavor - pleasant at first, but as the stew reduced the buds started to deteriorate and broke apart making them irretrievable.  Biting into one of these chunks was not pleasant.  That being said it did impart a nice flavor - bitter, but pleasant.  The leftovers were gross.  Hops sitting overnight in the dish made it inedible as the flavors melded and the bitterness increased.  Lesson learned - use it, but use moderation and remove them when you get what you want from them.  Much in the way Bay leaves are used in soup.  One interesting thing I noticed was the meat didn't pick up the bitterness the way the liquid components did.  In future experiments I'll experiment using them as a component for a brine.

This led me to get thinking more about the hop flavor and what I like to pair with a strong IPA.  Mexican and Indian cuisines were what first came to mind but my cupboard was bare for such dishes.  I had sweet paprika, chicken breasts, chicken stock, yellow onions, mushrooms, garlic, and celery.  A Goulash was born!  Apologies for not having a picture of the plated finished dish... it was so delicious we ate it all!

Ingredients:
~
1/2 C all-purpose flour
1/2 t kosher salt
1/4 t ground black pepper
2 large chicken breasts (trimmed and cut into 1" chunks
~
2 T olive oil
3 med yellow onions (sliced thin pole to pole)
3 T sweet paprika
2 fresh cascade hops
1/2 t ground cumin
1/8 t ground ginger
1/8 t ground cinnamon
6 large cremini mushrooms (cut in eighths - I prefer big chunks)
2 ribs celery (diced)
3-5 cloves garlic (sliced)
pinch salt
2 cups chicken stock

Method:

1.  In a large bowl combine flour, salt and black pepper.  Pat chicken chunks dry and add to bowl.  Toss chicken to coat all sides evenly with flour mixture.  Remove chicken from excess flour mixture and set aside.

2.  In a large saute pan heat oil over med-hi til a small piece of onion sizzles on contact.  Add remaining onion to pan and saute to coat onions evenly with oil.  Immediately add paprika, hops, cumin, ginger, and cinnamon, stirring to coat everything and mix the spices evenly.  Continue saute until onions begin to release their moistue and have had time to caramelize a bit.  You want the mixture to caramelize but not get too dry.  Add the mushrooms, celery, garlic, and a pinch of salt.  Again, toss to coat everything evenly and return to heat.

3.  When the mushrooms begin to release their liquids, add the chicken stock.  Bring the mixture to a boil and then reduce to simmer.  Add the floured chicken chunks and stir to coat.  Simmer gently for 10 min and remove the hops.  Continue to simmer until chicken is done and liquids have reduced to the desired consistency.  (Thicken with beurre-manie if needed).

This is great served over rice and paired with wilted greens.  Although this is chicken the paprika makes a nice pairing with a bold red wine.

Asian Roasted Brussels Sprouts

When it comes to Brussels Sprouts people either love them or hate them.  I like to ask the haters what they don't like about them and the #1 response is; "They are bitter". Followed closely by #2; "They are mushy".  Combine bitter AND mushy and it makes total sense why people don't like them.  Most at-fault cooking method: Boiling.

Oh good people, you are missing out on one of my all time favorite vegetables!

Nutritionally these sprouts pack a wallop!  They are high in fiber, low in calories, and loaded with antioxidants and healthy phytochemicals.  Getting them in season is a special treat because they are sweet and earthy.  Roasting them is my preferred cooking method.  It is a great means of seasoning and caramelizing them to fit any flavor profile. Cast aside the swirling cauldron of bitter broth and grab a mixing bowl and a sheet pan.  Set your oven to bake at 375F and learn to roast them!

Teriyaki Chicken with Asian Roasted Brussels Sprouts

Ingredients:
4-6 C Brussels Sprouts (trimmed, cleaned, drained, and quartered)
~Seasonings~
2 large cloves Garlic (minced)
1 T Fresh Ginger (minced)
1 T Brown Sugar
2 t Mirin
1 T Soy Sauce
1/2 t Sesame oil (optional)
2-3 T Canola oil
Red Pepper Flakes (tt)
Salt (tt)
ground black pepper (tt)

Method:

1. Line a sheet pan with foil or parchment (to ease cleanup).
2. Combine Seasonings and stir until sugar dissolves.
3. Combine Sprouts and Seasoning blend in a bowl or zip-top bag and toss to coat sprouts evenly.
4. Spread sprouts out evenly into a single layer on the pan.  Roast at 375F until they are tender and caramelized.  I'm not giving a time because it depends on the size of the sprouts.  It may be as little as 30min or more than an hour.

Notes:
One of my favorite things about this recipe is the single leaves that turn crisp.  One day when I get a deep fryer, I want to experiment with making Brussels Sprout "Chips" either on their own or as a base for a canape.

C = Cup(s)
T = Tablespoon(s)
t = Teaspoon(s)
(tt) = to taste

Lime Cilantro Aioli

ai·o·li

[ahy-oh-lee]

noun Cookery .

A garlic-flavored mayonnaise of Provence, served with fish and seafood and often with vegetables.

There is a lovely tradition of Latin American flavors colliding with traditional French techniques here in Florida.  To me the world of food is funny.  The base for this cold emulsion sauce is credited to the French region of Provence, but with the addition of a little Lime and Cilantro its flavor gets transported all the way across the Ocean and lands solidly in the Caribbean.  I have been looking into more hearth healthy oil-based accents as a flavor substitutes for cheese in my all time favorite breakfast food - the Omelet.  Aioli is a fantastic sauce for veggies and eggs.  It's also a great condiment for poultry based sandwiches and wraps.

Omelet: Sauteed Cachucha Peppers, Mushrooms, and Spinach - with a Cilantro-Lime Aioli

I chuckle a little when I read a recipe and it has you do the simplest of things in a food processor.  It's not that I don't think food processors don't save time... they most certainly do - IF you are making huge volumes.  I laugh because in my opinion, As a single person, making a small batch of fresh mayonnaise involves so much LESS cleanup when you do it the old fashioned way - in a bowl with a whisk.  Fresh mayonnaise transcends what you buy in the store.  You have complete control of the flavors, additive, and consistency.

Ingredients:

~Emulsifiers

2 cloves garlic - minced

splash EVOO

1/2 t. kosher salt 

1 lime - zest (juice separated)

1 large egg yolk (use the white in your omelet!)

1/2 t. Dijon mustard

~Emulsion

3/4 C. canola oil

1/4 C. EVOO

~Finish (to taste)

fresh cilantro - minced

reserved lime juice

kosher salt

Yield:

About 1 C.

Method:

1. (Prep emulsifiers) On a cutting board, combine garlic, EVOO, and Kosher salt.  Mash with the edge of a Chef's knife until it forms a paste.  In a mixing bowl, whisk together mashed garlic mixture, lime zest, egg yolk, and Dijon mustard until smooth, well combined, and salt is fully dissolved.
2. (Emulsify) Slowly, and in a  steady stream, add canola oil and whisk vigorously with Emulsifiers to form a mayonnaise.
3. (Finish) Adjust flavor to taste by adding fresh chopped cilantro, lime juice, and salt.  Thin to desired consistency with water.

Tips:

Cold yolks emulsify faster than room temp ones.

Herbed Pizza / Calzone Crust

I love Pizza.  It is my kryptonite, my weakness.  Try as I might to avoid it, I always crave it.  I like all kinds - from traditional and simple (Martguerita) to experimental (Fig, Arugula, Prosciutto).  If I can have fantastic ingredients baked onto a scrumptious crust, then I'm happy.

Today I turned my attention to the crust.  Crust is the foundation for any good pizza.  Without a good crust, it's hard to be satisfied with any form of pizza.  In this recipe I incorporated a small amount of dried oregano into the mixture.  Adding flavorings to the dough gave me tons of ideas for other combinations - but I don't think it's appropriate for the crust to dominate a pizza.  It should be a subtle flavor everything else rests on.  Oregano offers the perfect flavor profile to compliment traditional pizza interpretations.

Oregano Crusted Calzone stuffed with Pepperoni, Pepperoncini, Mushrooms, Onions, and Smoked Mozzarella

Ingredients:
~Sponge
1/4 C warm water
1/2 t. sugar 
1 envelope active dry yeast (1/4 oz)
2 T. olive oil
~Dry Mix
3 Cups bread flour (sifted)
1/4 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp dried oregano
~Knead
3/4 Cup warm water
additional flour (for kneading surface)
~Fermentation
1 T. olive oil

Yield:
Two or Three 12" pizza crusts - depending of thickness. (Three Calzones).

Method:

1. (Sponge) In a small bowl: Add warm water, sugar, dry yeast, and oil.  Stir gently until yeast and sugar dissolve.  Set in a warm place for 10 min. or until foamy.
2. (Dry Mix) In a large mixing bowl: Sift together flour, baking powder, and salt.  Add dried oregano and combine to distribute evenly.  Make a well in the center and then add Sponge mixture to center of well.  Running fingers around the edges of the dry mixture, pushing dry mixture into wet mixture.  Incorporate until dry ingredients are is moistened.  If your fingers are sticky, continue to incorporate and distribute evenly the wet / dry combination.  Mixture should by chunky and still fairly dry - but evenly distributed.
3. (Knead) Form another well in the mixture and then add 3/4 C warm water.  Once again, with your "wet" wet hand, stir around and combine ingredients until a loose dough is formed.  Turn the mixture out onto a lightly floured surface and knead 6-8 min until dough is smooth, monolithic, and elastic.
4. (Ferment)  In a separate bowl, smear evenly with 1 T olive oil.  Add dough ball, and then turn over to evenly coat with oil.  Cover bowl with a clean, dry cloth and place in a warm part of the kitchen free from drafts.  Let mixture ferment and raise until approximately double (1.5 - 2 hours)
5. (Pre-form & Dock)  Divide dough into 2 or 3 even portions and roll into balls.  Dough be frozen at this point.  If using immediately let portions rest another 10-15 min.
6. (Final form and bake):  Roll our or toss to desired portions and top with ingredients.  Bake at 475F for about 10 min. or until evenly golden brown.   An egg-wash of the crust would enhance baking appearance - but I feel it toughens the softness of this crust.  The picture was done without egg-wash.

End of Classes

My time at Le Cordon Bleu Portland has drawn to a close.  Ending GPA = 4.0.  YAY!

Wednesday (the last day) we had to prepare a single dish from a mystery box.  Essentially it was time to clean out the walk-in cooler before spring break.  We were told we would be assigned either chicken or salmon - and were asked to pull ingredients for two servings of vegetables and a starch.

Braised Chicken in Gingered Pan Gravy

I drew Chicken and had pulled Rapini, Summer Squash, and Sweet Potatoes.  For garnish, I decided to depart from the ubiquitous minced parsley and went with roasted leek threads.  The braise liquid originated with mirepoix a brun, singer a blond, deglaze with a sherry vinegar and then augmented with a vegetable stock flavored with bay and black pepper, thyme, parsley, and fresh ginger.  The chicken was seared off with a dusting of salt, coriander, fennel, and pink peppercorns and then landed in the braise liquid to finish.  It was tasty!

I got a little emotional walking around taking thank you notes to my instructors.  I'm so happy to have made it through and grateful to them for sharing their knowledge with me.   The next stage of my education is Internship!  NOW GET TO WORK!

A Buckwheat Pita

My gripe with many commercial pitas is they lack both flavor and texture.  In my opinion, additives in bread to improve their shelf life really take a toll on flavor.  I had fresh baked pitas two weeks ago as part of my school curriculum and they were a marked improvement both in flavor and texture.

This weekend as I was looking for a weekend project, I happened upon a package of Buckwheat flour hiding on my cupboard shelf.  I love the sweet, nutty, earthiness Buckwheat adds to things.  I was already underway on a fresh batch of Baba Ganouj and Hummus so I needed something to go with them.  Instead of making a trip to the store and choking down another commercial imposter of a pita I decided to make Buckwheat Pitas!

Buckwheat pitas with Hummus and Baba Ganouj

This is a first run attempt so I was nervous about how much buckwheat flour to use.  In looking at other recipes, percentages and ratios were all over the board.  I settled on a simple recipe, trusted my instincts and replaced a full third of the AP flour weight with buckwheat flour.  The results weren't perfect, but looked and tasted great!  These are very soft "pocket" pitas with a pronounced Buckwheat flavor.  The robust nutty flavor stands well against the strong flavors of Hummus and Baba Ganouj.

Yields 8 pitas


Ingredients:
~
2.25t active dry yeast
0.25C warm water
a drop of honey

~
10oz AP Flour (plus more as "kneaded")
5oz buckwheat flour
1T granulated sugar
1.5t kosher salt
~
2T olive oil
1.25C-1.5C water (room temp)

Method:

1. Activate the yeast:  Dissolve yeast in warm water and add a drop of honey.  Let sit at room temperature for about 10 min.  When a head of bubbles forms over the water - the yeast is active.
2. Combine: Sift together flours and sugar into a mixing bowl.  Add kosher salt and stir to distribute evenly.  Form a well in the center.  Add the yeast mixture, olive oil, and about half the water.  Use a bowl scraper or wooden spoon to combine the ingredients.  The amount of water will vary (you may not need to incorporate all the water.  or you may need to add more).  Combine all ingredients adjusting water content as needed until the dough forms a ball.
3. Knead: On a floured surface knead the dough about 10 min (use ap flour).   Keep adding a dusting of ap flour to the kneading surface and hands to prevent sticking.  Finished dough should be monolithic, smooth, and only slightly sticky. 
4. Fermentation:  Coat a bowl with spray oil or olive oil.  Form the dough into a ball.  Set dough in oiled bowl and turn over to coat all sides of dough.  Cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel and let rise to about double. 
5. Preheat oven and cooking surface to 400F.  Some day...I'll have a stone...until then, I use an inverted aluminum baking sheet. The cooking surface should always be preheated.  These pitas hold so much moisture that I did not "steam" the oven before hand.  If you want to go for it!
6. Form, proof, bake:  Divide the dough into eight equal portions (mine were each 3.6oz).  Form each portion into a ball and roll out into circles on a floured surface using a floured rolling-pin to a thickness of about 1/8 or 1/4 inch.  to proof, let dough rest in a warm place until tacky (about 5 min - I use the top of my warm stove).  In my oven I do two at a time.  Place proofed pita on hot surface in hot oven and bake until puffy (about 5 min.).  I like my pitas soft so if you prefer crisp just leave them in a bit longer.
7. Let them cool on a wire rack or eat them hot.  To store, let them cool completely and store in parchment (plastic will make them gluey).

Notes:
The pockets formed but aren't as uniform as I had hoped.  One of my gripes on commercial pitas is they have a tendency to be tough...these are almost too soft.  Flavor and texture wise they are a real pleasure for dipping and they smell GREAT when they cook.  I'm considering adding 1/8t baking soda in hopes of enhancing the formation of the "pocket".  Also in the next batch I think I'll try reducing buckwheat to 4oz and using 11oz AP flour.

Tacos Al Pastor - Gringo style

Portland is renown for it's food trucks.  I've sampled many of their offerings...some good...some not so good.  Ever since I've moved to the Northwest I've been disappointed with the offerings of "Mexican" establishments be it food truck or sit-down restaurant.  I can't really blame the vendors.  Portland is a LONG way from the sunny climate of Mexican origin.  Access to sun-ripened fresh ingredients is challenging at any time of year - especially now in the middle of winter.  Taco offerings in Portland are in desperate need of improvement.  I have yet to be impressed with any of the street food offerings of this Mexican classic.

One of my favorite preparations when it comes tacos is the Al Pastor style.  My Northwest climate simply is NOT conducive to producing the robust flavored chiles used in this dish.  Instead, I have to rely on re-hydrating dried chiles, canned products, and "fresh" pineapples from far far away.  Alas, this is one dish I can't source close to home.  One of my main gripes with what I've eaten from vendors is the texture of the pork.  Al Pastor should never be tough - it should be silky soft.  Lately, my geographic location has been experiencing a stretch of sunny weather.  I am itchy for the spicy flavors of Mexico.  I want to taste the sun.  Meanwhile, everything around me is dormant.  This rendition of Tacos al Pastor is as good as this poor gringo can do under the circumstances.

Tacos Al Pastor

 Ingredients:
    ~Marinade/Salsa:
1ea dried guajillo pepper
1ea bay leaf
1ea fresh jalapeno pepper
0.25ea fresh pineapple (chopped)
1ea canned chipotle pepper
1T adobo sauce
0.5 ea yellow onion (diced)
4ea cloves garlic (minced)
1.5t ground cinnamon
0.5t dried marjoram
0.5t paprika
0.5t coriander seeds (toasted and crushed)
0.5t black peppercorns (toasted and crushed)
1T kosher salt
1T red wine vinegar
   ~Preparation:
1# Pork tenderloin

Method:

1. In small saucepan place dried pepper and bay leaf in enough water to cover.  Bring to boil and cook until soft and fragrant.  Drain water, remove seeds and stems from pepper.  Transfer to food processor
2. Process re-hydrated pepper and bay leaf with remaining marinade ingredients.  Process until smooth.  This makes quite a bit more than 1# of pork needs to marinade.  Try it!  it also makes a pretty great tomatoless salsa.
3. Cut 3/4" wide strips into the tenderloin, but don't cut all the way through.  Stuff these cuts full of marinade and coat the outside of the loin completely.  To even out cooking, tie the roast back together with butcher-twine.  Let this roast marinade no more than 45 min. in the refrigerator.  Pineapple contains the enzyme bromelain which breaks down collagen fibers in meat.  In a soft cut like the tenderloin - it doesn't take much time for it to turn to mush.  Coarser cuts of pork can marinate a bit longer.
4. Roast at 375F until internal temp registers 137F.  Remove from oven, cover with foil and rest.  Internal temperature will continue to rise to somewhere around 145F.
5. Cut into bite-size pieces and finish in a saute pan with a little oil if more caramelization is desired.
6. Serve in warm corn tortillas with fresh chopped white onion, cilantro, sour cream, and lime wedges.

Potatoes Dauphinoise

As an Idaho boy, I like to think I know a thing or two about potatoes.  I've got to tip my hat to the French on this one as it is quite possibly the best Au Gratin dish I've ever had. Subtlety is what drives the flavor in this wonderful side dish.  Spend the time to get a good infusion on the milk mixture and play around with the flavorings. Use the best Gruyere you can afford. I picked up a French cave-aged on sale at a local purveyor. I did this up in about a 10-11" gratin dish.  Individual serving ramekins would be great too.  A dish with a larger surface area is a little easier to get right.

Potatoes Dauphinoise

Ingredients:
2 large russet potatoes (peeled and cut into VERY thin slices, you need enough to make at least two layers)
12 oz milk
4 oz heavy cream
1 pinch nutmeg
~~~Boquet Garni:

1 pc leek green
2-3 sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
1 clove garlic (smashed)
1 julienne celery stick
3-5 parsley stems
~~~

4 oz. Gruyere cheese shredded
butter (for dish)
salt and white pepper (to taste)

Preheat oven to 350F

Method:

1. Prepare Gratin dish by coating generously with butter. Refrigerate dish until ready.

2. In a small saucepan add milk, cream, nutmeg, and Boquet Garni. Season lightly with salt and white pepper. Bring the liquid to a boil then remove it from heat and let the flavors infuse 5 min.

3. In prepared gratin dish, arrange potato slices overlapping around perimeter and spiral inward. Season this layer with salt and white pepper. Repeat to create another layer of potatoes spiraling the other direction (This help things hold together better when you cut it later). Repeat if needed.

4. strain hot milk mixture over potatoes (remove the aromatics). The amount of liquid given isn't exact and fool proof...you have to take into consideration the dish you are using and they type of potato used. Many recipes I saw for this use waxy potatoes. My russets held up just fine. Fill the dish up about half way. If you overfill it may make for messy clean up and the potatoes may be over done. Top with shredded cheese.

5. Bake: Cover the gratin with a buttered parchment lids cut to cover your dish. It should fit inside and come up the edges slightly. Bake at 350 for about 45 min. and then remove the parchment lid. Depending on the dish and potatoes, it may take another 15-25 min to get a nice browned bubbly top and make sure the potatoes are done. Take it out of the oven and let it rest 5 min. before cutting. Most of the liquid should have migrated into the potatoes.

Tip:

I strongly suggest baking this on a sheet pan covered in foil.  This can easily bubble over and make a mess in your oven - doing it on a sheet pan makes cleanup a snap.

Shirred Eggs

Eggs are a component of all of my favorite Breakfast dishes.  In France this dish is named Oefs en Cocotte.  I got turned on to Shirred Eggs through my classwork.  This method takes soft, smooth, creamy eggs one step further by combining small amounts of savory goodness and pinch of elegance.  One great thing about doing eggs this way is you can to all of the prep in advance.  Do them up the night before, seal them up, and then pop them in the oven in the morning.  It makes a great dish if you are cooking a romantic brunch or feeding a group.  I like to serve it with toast sticks for dunking.  Flavor combinations are limited only by your imagination.

Shirred Eggs with Bacon, Mushroom, Shallot & Thyme served with Toast Sticks

Ingredients:
butter (enough to coat ramekin)
2T cream
2ea large eggs
1ea strip bacon (cut small and browned)
2ea crimini mushrooms (fine chop)
1t shallot (very fine chop)
1ea sprig fresh thyme (leaves only)
1/2t parsmesan cheese (finely shredded)
salt & pepper (to taste)
     ~Garnish:
green onion (sifflet)

Method:

1. Preheat oven to 375F.
2. Butter ramekin. Pour cream into ramekin and then break eggs into cream mixture.  Set aside.
3. Crisp bacon to desired finish and drain on paper towel.  Cook mushrooms in bacon fat until they begin to release moisture - drain and set aside.
4. Combine cooked bacon and mushrooms with raw shallot.  Evenly distribute this mixture over the top of the eggs and whites.  Top with thyme, cheese, salt & pepper.
5. Bake at 375F for approx. 12-14 minutes or until done.  Garnish and serve.

Yield:
One serving

Notes:

• The trick to custards like this is knowing your oven.  Cook times will vary.  A good custard should jiggle when shaken.  There will be some residual cooking from the ramekin after you remove it from the oven so I recommend taking it out when there is a good amount of jiggle.  If I were doing these for multiples, I'd consider doing them in a water bath to even out the baking temperature.

Mushroom Stock

I've got people.  These people supply me with great components that others would simply put in the compost pile.  I'm talking about 2 pounds of Shiitake mushroom stems!  They are fibrous and inedible, so what on earth can you do with them?  When cooked down with other aromatics into a stock it forms an earthy backdrop for one of my favorite winter soups... Dream of Mushroom Soup (separate post).  I highly recommend making a huge batch of this stock - especially if you follow a vegetarian diet.  The stock can be used in other veggie dishes and makes a fantastic cooking liquid.  I freeze some of it in ice-cube trays to make storage and portioning easier.

Ingredients:

2T olive oil

1ea medium yellow onion, rough diced

2ea garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1ea large carrot, peeled, rough diced

1ea parsnip, peeled, rough diced

2ea celery ribs, rough diced

1/2ea sweet red pepper, rough diced

2# shiitake mushroom stems

1 tsp salt

6 branches fresh thyme (stems and all)

6 branches fresh parsley (stems and all)

2-3 branches fresh sage (stems and all)

2 ea dry bay leaves

3-4ea dry cloves

16C cold water 

Method:

• In a large stock pot heat oil over medium heat.  Add onions and garlic, stirring and cook til translucent.  Add carrot, parsnip, celery, red pepper, mushroom stems, and salt.  Stir and cook until vegetables start to release liquids.  Add herbs and water.  Bring to a boil then reduce heat to a fast simmer and cook for 45-60 min.
• Pour mixture through a fine mesh strainer and return it to a large stock pot.  Reduce liquids to desired intensity (approx. another 45-60min.) 

Yields approximately 10 Cups of stock.

Oatmeal Deluxe

We have been studying various cereal grains in class.  As such I've been experiencing production for some things I have never made before.  Making grits, farro, and polenta are all fairly new to me but all of these products have been around for a while.  All grains to me are like a canvas... neutral flavors that serves as a textural backdrop for receiving flavors.

Today blog though I thought I would share one of MY favorite grains...rolled oats.  Many years ago I experimented with eating the Macrobiotic way.  During that period I learned how much MORE flavor you can get from rolled oats by toasting them.  It's been a few years and I've learned some other methods that bring me to this Deluxe version of the Oatmeal.  This recipe is for a single serving, but it can easily be scaled up to feed an army.  It takes more time than making "instant" oatmeal, but I can guarantee you, there is no "instant" oatmeal that tastes like this.

Ingredients:
1 - C milk (I use 2%)
1 - 1" piece cinnamon stick
3 - whole cloves
0.5 - C rolled steel-cut whole grain oats
pinch of salt
0.25 - C  fresh firm apple, cored and cut small dice (I like Fuji or Gala)
brown sugar to taste

Method:

1. In a small saucepan combine milk, cinnamon stick, and cloves.  Over low heat and stirring occasionally, bring mixture to a scald.  This releases the oils in the cinnamon and clove and infuses the milk with subtle flavors.  There will be some milk-solids stuck to the bottom of the pan...this is normal and expected.  Remove cinnamon and cloves from the milk mixture.  Keep warm.
2. Meanwhile, in another flat pan, add oats and place over medium heat.  As the pan comes to temperature swirl the dry oats around in the pan and toss them to toast.  The line between toasting and burnt is very narrow so close attention is necessary.  A nice nutty/toasty smell is how I gauge when it is done.  Remove them from the heat.
3. Add toasted oats to hot milk mixture and stir in a pinch of salt.  Bring mixture just barely to boil then reduce heat to simmer and stir in the chopped apple (banana is good too).  Continue to simmer gently and stir occasionally until oatmeal is cooked.  I like my oatmeal quite thick.  Thin the mixture with milk or water to desired texture.
4. Plate and top with a sprinkle of brown sugar.

Boston Baked Beans

I get cravings.  This weekend it is for Boston Baked Beans!  Also, I've been trying to up my folate and fiber intakes so beans give me both of those things.  Not only that, if properly prepared they are soulfully satisfying.  I've been following what I understand to be a British custom of eating beans on toast lately and have been using canned beans done up in a sodium-laden corn syrup based sludge of goo.  I'm of the opinion that everything that comes out of a can tastes like cat-food (and YES, I know what cat-food tastes like... don't ask).  Flavor and Texture - wise, I know I can do better.  My quest this weekend was for a recipe that satisfied my craving for the homey sweet/savory richness of baked beans without the can flavor.

I pulled several recipes from the net... all of which rely heavily on pre-made mixtures.  Finally, I found one that uses ketchup as a base albiet pre-made... until I get a ketchup recipe I'm happy with, I'm happy to use what's out there... a few mods to the base recipe... I'm off and running.


Ingredients:

• 2 cups kidney beans
• Sachet:
• 4-6 sprigs thyme
• 2-3 cloves garlic
• 1 whole clove
• 1 whole bay leaf

• 1/2 pound bacon
• 1 onion, finely diced
• Sauce:
• 3 tablespoons molasses
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper - toasted
• 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard - toasted
• 2 tsp Adobo sauce
• 1/2 cup ketchup
• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
• 1/4 cup brown sugar

Directions

1. Soak beans overnight in cold water. Simmer the beans in the same water and add sachet.  Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer approximately 1 to 2 hours. Drain and reserve the liquid.
2. Preheat oven to 300 degrees F (165 degrees C).
3. Arrange the beans in a 2 quart bean pot or casserole dish by placing a portion of the beans in the bottom of dish, and layering them with raw bacon and onion.  Repeat layers of beans, onions, bacon, ...ending with beans.
4. In a saucepan, combine molasses, salt, pepper, dry mustard, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, Adobo, and brown sugar. Bring the mixture to a boil and pour over beans. Pour in just enough of the reserved bean water to cover the beans. Cover the dish with a lid or aluminum foil.
5. Bake for 3 to 4 hours in the preheated oven, until beans are tender. Remove the lid about halfway through cooking, and add more liquid if necessary to prevent the beans from getting too dry.

Salmon Cakes

Salmon Cakes with Gingered Bok Choy

Once upon a time, a long time ago... I HATED Salmon.  The dreaded Salmon-loaf from my childhood still haunts my dreams.  Ever since I moved to the Northwest my feelings for this beautiful fish have evolved.  It is now one of my favorite fish to prepare and to eat.  I love the intense flavor and oily but flaky texture.  When it's done right, Salmon is divine.

I recently acquired a 4.5 pound salmon through a guy who knows a guy...  Now what is a single guy to do with an entire salmon?  I've been trying to practice breaking down fish and got 4 good steaks, two sizeable fillets, and a fair amount of trimmings.  One of the fillets is well underway to becoming Gravlax.  These "cakes" were made from the trimmings of my salmon filet practice.

I chop the salmon fine with my chef knife, then add rolled oats, teriyaki sauce, cilantro, fresh ginger, ground black pepper and the white of one egg to form essentially the salmon equivalent of meatloaf.  Proportions are hard to describe as I did this all by feel and tasting.  I used a ring-mold to form the patties into consistent shapes on parchment, then refrigerated them before cooking to help them set.  Cooking was a breeze... In a large no-stick skillet over medium heat in hot canola oil each patty took about 2 min. a side to brown nicely.  I used two cakes per serving and set them into a tower with a layer of Jasmine rice and topped it all off with some pickled radish and cucumber.

These could make good "burgers" too.

Pizza Sauce

This weekend I tried out a recipe I've been meaning to try for some time...
 http://www.pizzamaking.com/thincrust.php

I am a HUGE fan of pizza and I have been ever since I can remember.  One of my favorite activities as a kid was when the whole family went to Me & Eds Pizza to celebrate birthdays.  I recall they had a wonderful bubbly cracker crust and lately I've been seeking to replicate it.  It seems where I live, the fashion in pizza is a very thick, doughy crust.  In my abbreviated research this is often referred to as a "Chicago" crust.  The above recipe is referred to as a "California" crust.  It comes as close as any I've found to matching the texture I'm after.  It is crisp yet chewy and stands up to heavy toppings.

Thin crust pepperoni pizza with green peppers and mushrooms

Another challenge on my quest for pizza perfection is the sauce.  Too often when I make pizza at home I open a can or a bottle and try to be happy with what comes out.  No more!  I prefer a pasty sauce to a liquid sauce and I feel it holds more flavor in the high temperatures of cooking pizza.

1.5 oz dried sun-dried tomato
6 floz boiling water
6 oz Tomato past
1 tsp chili paste
2 cloves fresh garlic
1 small fresh shallot
1/2 tsp black peppercorns (crushed)
1 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp dried red pepper flakes
1/4 tsp dried oregano
1/4 tsp dried basil
1/4 tsp chili powder
1-2 tbsp honey
1t white wine
salt & pepper to taste

1. Rehydrate the sun dried tomatoes in 6oz. boiling water til soft.  Reserve tomato water.
2. Combine remaining ingredients in a food processor and pulse til blended and coarsely chopped.  When blended turn processor on and add water and wine in a continuous thin stream.  Blend til smooth.  Refrigerate about 30 min. prior to using to allow flavors to meld.

Things I do in class

I'm so happy to have the baking module in school behind me.  I learned some important and usable things, but my heart is firmly on the culinary side of the fence.  I need more things on my artist palette besides eggs, butter, sugar, and flour.  Yes, I'm exaggerating but my tastes tend to the savory as opposed to the sweet.  This last week was my first week back since winter break.  I have started a new module called Cuisine Across Cultures. At the start of any new class I go through a time where it takes me a bit to adjust to the new kitchen and the new chef.  This last week we had two production days to put in practice some of the things we learned about salt and other spices.

We made Gravlax which is a Nordic dish of salt cured salmon.  Basically what you do is bury a piece of salmon in a mixture of salt, sugar, and dill and then compress it for three days.  I like it and hope to do up a fresh batch of salt crusted bagels with cream cheese, capers, and dill.

What I love most about this new class is I get to play with some really great ingredients.  It inspires me.  I have a passion fo the "traditional" foods of every country and want to try them all.  In class Thursday we were learning the flavor profiles of South America, Asia, and the Middle East.  I had worked out a timeline to present each of these dishes as a single plate, but my class team all pitched in and we batched up the sauce making to make it possible to have it all come together at once.  This is what I produced.

Beef Chimmichurri, Quail Yakitori, and Scallops Charmoula

 The Scallops Charmoula was my favorite.  It's of Moroccan origin.  North African and Middle Eastern cuisines have captured my attention lately.