Garlic Spears in Beurre Noissette

Garlic Spears (also called Garlic Scapes), are the flowering spikes of elephant garlic.  They are only available for a limited time in the spring as they are trimmed off developing elephant garlic plants.  They used to be cast aside but now are available to buy.  I've seen them at farmers markets and at specialty grocers like Whole Foods.  I first had Garlic Spears a few years ago and instantly fell in love.  If I ever have room in my garden, I'm definitely setting aside some space for them.

I got three preparations for two people from the bundle.  To keep them fresh I set them in a cup of water in the fridge (a trick I learned works well for asparagus).  They are super-easy to prepare and I personally feel these are worthy of showcasing with a simple preparations.  My favorite way is a simple saute.  These come together really fast so it's usually the last thing I do before plating.

Ingredients:
~Garlic spears (heads trimmed, stems cut 2")
~EVOO (enough to lightly coat - maybe 1 tblsp max.)
~Salt & Pepper (to taste)
~1 tbsp unsalted butter
~1 pinch red pepper flakes (or lemon zest if you don't like heat)

Method:

• Prep veggies: In a bowl combine heads and stems with a small amount of olive oil and salt & pepper.
• Brown butter: Set large saute pan over medium-high heat until hot.  Pull pan off heat and add butter.  As it melts, swirl the butter in the pan to coat the pan and lightly brown the butter (Beurre Noisette).  This method may take practice to get the heat and browning right.  You WANT a hot pan but if it's too hot then the butter will burn. 
• Saute:   Add a pinch of red pepper flakes and then the oiled scapes.  Toss to coat and return pan to med-high heat.  Let saute until caramelized, flip again to get the other sides.  Total cook time for me was about 5 min. (2.5 min. per flip).  Pull them off of heat and keep warm.  Serve immediately.

garlic spears paired with grilled rib-eye.

Other ideas/uses:
Left overs make a fantastic filling for omelettes.  Roasting would be another good and simple way.  A Pesto could also be good but at this time I haven't tried yet.

Roasted Sweet Pepper Sauce

Sweet peppers or Bell peppers are native to Mexico and other Central American regions and were spread to the rest of the world by Spanish and Portuguese explorers during 16th and 17th centuries.  Today they are used around the world.  The largest producer is China. The fruit is green when young and then progresses to shades of red and yellow as it ripens on the vine.

I love cooking shows, but there is a part of me that gets a little miffed because so many of them - especially the "reality" type ones - rely on doing things in 20 minutes (or less).  In my kitchen, the best ingredient I've found is time.  A flavorful, deep, complex sauce takes time.  If you are in a hurry this recipe is likely not for you.  However, if you want a sweet pepper sauce that actually tastes like peppers, taking the time to roast the peppers makes all the difference.  Start to finish this sauce took me just under two hours.

The other day I acquired a nice bag of mini red, yellow, and orange peppers. I've been nibbling through them, but like many who live small - I'm challenged to use them up before they go bad. A quick search for red pepper sauce on the web yielded lots of recipes - but most of them relied on adding cream and/or tomatoes. I wanted a sauce that would showcase the peppers themselves without being weighed down by cream or altered by the acidity of tomatoes. This is what I came up with.

~Ingredients:

Fresh red/yellow/orange sweet peppers (see below for quantity) 

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 of a large sweet onion (medium diced)

2 cloves garlic (minced)

1/4 cup white wine (approx)

1.5 cups pork stock

sugar (optional to taste)

salt & pepper to taste

~Method:

• Roast the peppers:  Cut peppers in half (pole to pole) and remove stems, seeds and membranes.  Place them cut-side down on a lightly oiled sheet pan (or use parchment for easier clean-up).  Place in a hot oven and roast for 20-30 min or until skins are darkened.  Remove the pan from the oven and cover tightly with foil.  Set the tray aside and let them "steam" to loosen the skins.  When cool enough to handle, peel off the tough skins and compost.  Cut the remaining tender flesh medium dice and set aside.

• In a 10" flat sided skillet over medium heat, melt the butter.  When butter is hot add onion and saute until onion is soft, translucent, and beginning to release moisture.  Add diced sweet peppers and garlic and continue to saute about 5 min.  Add white wine to deglaze the pan and reduce until alcohol flavor cooks off and liquids are reduced.  The mixture should still be wet with only a little moisture remaining.  Add the stock to the pan and increase heat to medium-high.  When the mixture comes up to simmer, reduce the heat slightly and simmer until stock volume is reduced to about 1/2 cup.

• Transfer pan contents to a food processor and puree until smooth.  Pass this mixture through a fine-mesh sieve and press to separate liquids from solids into a small clean saucepan.  (You can re-purpose the remaining solids at this stage as a spread for sandwiches or a dip for crudites .  Maintain the sauce over low heat and finish seasoning with salt, pepper, and sugar to taste.

As you can see above I used this as a sauce for breaded chicken, but it also makes a good pasta sauce.

Pico de Gallo

Pico de Gallo. (not my photo)

Do a search for Pico de Gallo and it's likely you'll run across a lot of different recipes for this traditional Mexican condiment.  Many of them claim to be "authentic".  I don't care for the term "authentic" as it relates to food.  In my experience it often means the author has had a dish someone prepared in a way that didn't match up to their expectation.  I fully acknowledge the heritage of this condiment has Mexican roots... but what part of Mexico?  It's a diverse place and a cuisine with a HUGE range of preparations and ingredients.

A few weeks ago I was involved in the assembly of a casual backyard party and thought Pico de Gallo would be an easy side to serve with chips.  Like many people I felt I didn't have the time to pull something together from scratch.  Hoo boy was that a mistake!  I bought a tub from the deli section of my supermarket.  It had absolutely no flavor.  There is no reason on earth to rely on anything but your own taste buds and some fresh ingredients to made this easy condiment.  I like it on chips, grilled fish, and especially shrimp tacos!

Once consistent complaint I have on commercially available versions of this is they use WAY too much tomato and not enough onion and other goodies.  This is a simple dish using simple ingredients and takes about 10 minutes start to finish.  Below are a few tips, observations, and suggestions to get the most flavor possible.

Ingredients:

2 medium whole tomatoes (seeded and chopped fine)
1 medium red onion (chopped fine)
1 jalapeno pepper (seeded and minced, or 2 serrano)
2 cloves garlic (smashed to a paste)
1 tsp olive oil 
1 lime (zest AND juice)
6 sprigs cilantro (leaves and stems minced)
to taste:
kosher salt
fresh ground black pepper

Method:

1.  Combine all ingredients in a bowl and let sit refrigerated for at least an hour or overnight.

Tips:

Use the best tomatoes you can afford.  I'm writing this in peak tomato season and my local farmers market is fantastic.  Many of the vendors have samples of their tomatoes cut up for tasting.  Today I opted for medium sized round beefsteaks on the vine.  The heirloom varieties were sweeter, but also much more expensive.  Off season, I would likely choose Romas.  Take the time to seed them.  The seeds and membranes can be bitter.

My first choice of onion is red.  They have a great bite and the added bonus of their purple color.  White would be my 2nd choice.  Yellow onions are fantastic too, but I prefer the bite of a red or white onion.  I like a ratio of about 1.5:2 tomato to onion by volume.

Peppers: In my research I found some recipes use jalapeno while some used serrano peppers. I have a high heat tolerance so if I were making this just for me I'd go with serranos.  If you are making for a mixed crowd consider opting for the milder jalapeno.

Garlic: I can't stand bottled minced garlic and always choose fresh for this.  It takes very little time to mince a clove of garlic and the flavor difference is huge.  Drizzle a little olive oil on the minced garlic and then using the side of a chefs knife scrape and flatten it into a paste.  I lean toward a variety that has a solid "stem" inside with a slight purple cast. 

Limes: Limes we get in North America often don't have intense flavor in the juice.  This is why I ALWAYS use the zest too.  The rind of the lime contains flavorful oils that adds a bold lime flavor to the mixture.

Salt: I know many people try to limit their salt, but it performs another function besides seasoning.  It helps draw the liquids out of all the other ingredients.  It's important!  Don't skip it.  You don't need much.  Start with a pinch and then adjust the seasoning right before service.

Cilantro:  Many in the culinary world may wince at using the stems.  In this dish I don't mind them.  If the stems are cut finely it adds an earthy tone to the floral finish of this herb.  Many people despise cilantro but without it Pico de Gallo seems flat.

Goulash ala Hops

Hello!  It's been far too long since I've made an installment.  Did you miss me?  I've been working on contract in Florida and I'm glad to return to Portland.  It's harvest time and time to play around in the kitchen!

Freshly harvested Cascade Hops

I consider myself an adventurous foodie and I'm always looking for new things to try in the kitchen. Hops are in season here in Oregon and a friend of mine raised a crop off from a first-year start obtained early this spring.  Aren't they pretty?

Hops are not what you think of as something to eat and are more commonly used as a bittering agent in the production of beer.  Since one of my favorite types of beer is an extremely hoppy IPA it got me thinking about how it might translate as a flavoring in food preparation.  I decided to experiment.  I'll tell you now that you DON'T want to eat one of these flowers raw.  They are indescribably bitter.  I did a couple experimental dishes and this is what I've learned.

My first experiment was a batch of chicken and dumplings.  I wanted something fairly simple to make tasting the hops easier.  I was worried they might get lost if I seasoned too heavily.  That was a mistake.  I added five or so hop buds to the stew as it simmered.  The dish picked up a distinct hop flavor - pleasant at first, but as the stew reduced the buds started to deteriorate and broke apart making them irretrievable.  Biting into one of these chunks was not pleasant.  That being said it did impart a nice flavor - bitter, but pleasant.  The leftovers were gross.  Hops sitting overnight in the dish made it inedible as the flavors melded and the bitterness increased.  Lesson learned - use it, but use moderation and remove them when you get what you want from them.  Much in the way Bay leaves are used in soup.  One interesting thing I noticed was the meat didn't pick up the bitterness the way the liquid components did.  In future experiments I'll experiment using them as a component for a brine.

This led me to get thinking more about the hop flavor and what I like to pair with a strong IPA.  Mexican and Indian cuisines were what first came to mind but my cupboard was bare for such dishes.  I had sweet paprika, chicken breasts, chicken stock, yellow onions, mushrooms, garlic, and celery.  A Goulash was born!  Apologies for not having a picture of the plated finished dish... it was so delicious we ate it all!

Ingredients:
~
1/2 C all-purpose flour
1/2 t kosher salt
1/4 t ground black pepper
2 large chicken breasts (trimmed and cut into 1" chunks
~
2 T olive oil
3 med yellow onions (sliced thin pole to pole)
3 T sweet paprika
2 fresh cascade hops
1/2 t ground cumin
1/8 t ground ginger
1/8 t ground cinnamon
6 large cremini mushrooms (cut in eighths - I prefer big chunks)
2 ribs celery (diced)
3-5 cloves garlic (sliced)
pinch salt
2 cups chicken stock

Method:

1.  In a large bowl combine flour, salt and black pepper.  Pat chicken chunks dry and add to bowl.  Toss chicken to coat all sides evenly with flour mixture.  Remove chicken from excess flour mixture and set aside.

2.  In a large saute pan heat oil over med-hi til a small piece of onion sizzles on contact.  Add remaining onion to pan and saute to coat onions evenly with oil.  Immediately add paprika, hops, cumin, ginger, and cinnamon, stirring to coat everything and mix the spices evenly.  Continue saute until onions begin to release their moistue and have had time to caramelize a bit.  You want the mixture to caramelize but not get too dry.  Add the mushrooms, celery, garlic, and a pinch of salt.  Again, toss to coat everything evenly and return to heat.

3.  When the mushrooms begin to release their liquids, add the chicken stock.  Bring the mixture to a boil and then reduce to simmer.  Add the floured chicken chunks and stir to coat.  Simmer gently for 10 min and remove the hops.  Continue to simmer until chicken is done and liquids have reduced to the desired consistency.  (Thicken with beurre-manie if needed).

This is great served over rice and paired with wilted greens.  Although this is chicken the paprika makes a nice pairing with a bold red wine.

Asian Roasted Brussels Sprouts

When it comes to Brussels Sprouts people either love them or hate them.  I like to ask the haters what they don't like about them and the #1 response is; "They are bitter". Followed closely by #2; "They are mushy".  Combine bitter AND mushy and it makes total sense why people don't like them.  Most at-fault cooking method: Boiling.

Oh good people, you are missing out on one of my all time favorite vegetables!

Nutritionally these sprouts pack a wallop!  They are high in fiber, low in calories, and loaded with antioxidants and healthy phytochemicals.  Getting them in season is a special treat because they are sweet and earthy.  Roasting them is my preferred cooking method.  It is a great means of seasoning and caramelizing them to fit any flavor profile. Cast aside the swirling cauldron of bitter broth and grab a mixing bowl and a sheet pan.  Set your oven to bake at 375F and learn to roast them!

Teriyaki Chicken with Asian Roasted Brussels Sprouts

Ingredients:
4-6 C Brussels Sprouts (trimmed, cleaned, drained, and quartered)
~Seasonings~
2 large cloves Garlic (minced)
1 T Fresh Ginger (minced)
1 T Brown Sugar
2 t Mirin
1 T Soy Sauce
1/2 t Sesame oil (optional)
2-3 T Canola oil
Red Pepper Flakes (tt)
Salt (tt)
ground black pepper (tt)

Method:

1. Line a sheet pan with foil or parchment (to ease cleanup).
2. Combine Seasonings and stir until sugar dissolves.
3. Combine Sprouts and Seasoning blend in a bowl or zip-top bag and toss to coat sprouts evenly.
4. Spread sprouts out evenly into a single layer on the pan.  Roast at 375F until they are tender and caramelized.  I'm not giving a time because it depends on the size of the sprouts.  It may be as little as 30min or more than an hour.

Notes:
One of my favorite things about this recipe is the single leaves that turn crisp.  One day when I get a deep fryer, I want to experiment with making Brussels Sprout "Chips" either on their own or as a base for a canape.

C = Cup(s)
T = Tablespoon(s)
t = Teaspoon(s)
(tt) = to taste

Lime Cilantro Aioli

ai·o·li

[ahy-oh-lee]

noun Cookery .

A garlic-flavored mayonnaise of Provence, served with fish and seafood and often with vegetables.

There is a lovely tradition of Latin American flavors colliding with traditional French techniques here in Florida.  To me the world of food is funny.  The base for this cold emulsion sauce is credited to the French region of Provence, but with the addition of a little Lime and Cilantro its flavor gets transported all the way across the Ocean and lands solidly in the Caribbean.  I have been looking into more hearth healthy oil-based accents as a flavor substitutes for cheese in my all time favorite breakfast food - the Omelet.  Aioli is a fantastic sauce for veggies and eggs.  It's also a great condiment for poultry based sandwiches and wraps.

Omelet: Sauteed Cachucha Peppers, Mushrooms, and Spinach - with a Cilantro-Lime Aioli

I chuckle a little when I read a recipe and it has you do the simplest of things in a food processor.  It's not that I don't think food processors don't save time... they most certainly do - IF you are making huge volumes.  I laugh because in my opinion, As a single person, making a small batch of fresh mayonnaise involves so much LESS cleanup when you do it the old fashioned way - in a bowl with a whisk.  Fresh mayonnaise transcends what you buy in the store.  You have complete control of the flavors, additive, and consistency.

Ingredients:

~Emulsifiers

2 cloves garlic - minced

splash EVOO

1/2 t. kosher salt 

1 lime - zest (juice separated)

1 large egg yolk (use the white in your omelet!)

1/2 t. Dijon mustard

~Emulsion

3/4 C. canola oil

1/4 C. EVOO

~Finish (to taste)

fresh cilantro - minced

reserved lime juice

kosher salt

Yield:

About 1 C.

Method:

1. (Prep emulsifiers) On a cutting board, combine garlic, EVOO, and Kosher salt.  Mash with the edge of a Chef's knife until it forms a paste.  In a mixing bowl, whisk together mashed garlic mixture, lime zest, egg yolk, and Dijon mustard until smooth, well combined, and salt is fully dissolved.
2. (Emulsify) Slowly, and in a  steady stream, add canola oil and whisk vigorously with Emulsifiers to form a mayonnaise.
3. (Finish) Adjust flavor to taste by adding fresh chopped cilantro, lime juice, and salt.  Thin to desired consistency with water.

Tips:

Cold yolks emulsify faster than room temp ones.

Herbed Pizza / Calzone Crust

I love Pizza.  It is my kryptonite, my weakness.  Try as I might to avoid it, I always crave it.  I like all kinds - from traditional and simple (Martguerita) to experimental (Fig, Arugula, Prosciutto).  If I can have fantastic ingredients baked onto a scrumptious crust, then I'm happy.

Today I turned my attention to the crust.  Crust is the foundation for any good pizza.  Without a good crust, it's hard to be satisfied with any form of pizza.  In this recipe I incorporated a small amount of dried oregano into the mixture.  Adding flavorings to the dough gave me tons of ideas for other combinations - but I don't think it's appropriate for the crust to dominate a pizza.  It should be a subtle flavor everything else rests on.  Oregano offers the perfect flavor profile to compliment traditional pizza interpretations.

Oregano Crusted Calzone stuffed with Pepperoni, Pepperoncini, Mushrooms, Onions, and Smoked Mozzarella

Ingredients:
~Sponge
1/4 C warm water
1/2 t. sugar 
1 envelope active dry yeast (1/4 oz)
2 T. olive oil
~Dry Mix
3 Cups bread flour (sifted)
1/4 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp dried oregano
~Knead
3/4 Cup warm water
additional flour (for kneading surface)
~Fermentation
1 T. olive oil

Yield:
Two or Three 12" pizza crusts - depending of thickness. (Three Calzones).

Method:

1. (Sponge) In a small bowl: Add warm water, sugar, dry yeast, and oil.  Stir gently until yeast and sugar dissolve.  Set in a warm place for 10 min. or until foamy.
2. (Dry Mix) In a large mixing bowl: Sift together flour, baking powder, and salt.  Add dried oregano and combine to distribute evenly.  Make a well in the center and then add Sponge mixture to center of well.  Running fingers around the edges of the dry mixture, pushing dry mixture into wet mixture.  Incorporate until dry ingredients are is moistened.  If your fingers are sticky, continue to incorporate and distribute evenly the wet / dry combination.  Mixture should by chunky and still fairly dry - but evenly distributed.
3. (Knead) Form another well in the mixture and then add 3/4 C warm water.  Once again, with your "wet" wet hand, stir around and combine ingredients until a loose dough is formed.  Turn the mixture out onto a lightly floured surface and knead 6-8 min until dough is smooth, monolithic, and elastic.
4. (Ferment)  In a separate bowl, smear evenly with 1 T olive oil.  Add dough ball, and then turn over to evenly coat with oil.  Cover bowl with a clean, dry cloth and place in a warm part of the kitchen free from drafts.  Let mixture ferment and raise until approximately double (1.5 - 2 hours)
5. (Pre-form & Dock)  Divide dough into 2 or 3 even portions and roll into balls.  Dough be frozen at this point.  If using immediately let portions rest another 10-15 min.
6. (Final form and bake):  Roll our or toss to desired portions and top with ingredients.  Bake at 475F for about 10 min. or until evenly golden brown.   An egg-wash of the crust would enhance baking appearance - but I feel it toughens the softness of this crust.  The picture was done without egg-wash.