Teriyaki Glaze

Teriyaki Glazed Chicken on a Pineapple Plank

     The word teriyaki derives from the Japanese noun teri, which refers to a shine or luster given by the sugar content in the teri, and yaki, which refers to the cooking method of grilling or broiling. Traditionally the meat is dipped in or brushed with sauce several times during cooking.  This salty-sweet sauce is delicious on fish, poultry, pork, and beef.   Basic recipes I've seen have 3 main ingredients - soy sauce, mirin, and sugar.

     Like many people these days I'm attempting to watch my intake of corn-syrup and other additives.  On a trip to the grocer the other day I found myself reading ingredient lists and many of them left me tongue-tangled and confounded.  It's no secret corn-starch and corn-syrup are widely used as thickeners but that doesn't mean I have to eat them.  I don't like the flavor, texture, or cloudiness this thickener produces.  A finished glaze should be shiny and clear.  There should be teri in your yaki!

     There are some store-brands I like, but I find the vast majority of them lack complexity (especially the cheap ones).  I prefer teriyaki with a citrusy/ginger note.  To the basic ingredients I like to add fresh ginger and citrus rinds (orange, lime, lemon, and pineapple).  I also use brown sugar instead of white.  As with many things, time is the ultimate ingredient.  When I make a glaze I let it reduce a little further than usual.  This makes a little goes a long way and if you need it thinner - you can always dilute it with water or stock.  Use it as a marinade, a glaze, or a dip.  It's fantastic.

~Ingredients:
10 oz soy sauce
5 oz mirin
5 oz rice vinegar
4 oz pineapple rind
4 oz citrus rind (orange, lemon, lime)
0.5 oz garlic (minced)
1 oz fresh ginger (minced)
6 tblsp brown sugar

~Method:

• In a large saucepan combine all ingredients and set over med-high heat until boiling.  Reduce heat to a mild simmer and let the liquids reduce and the sauce holds to the back of a spoon.  A 60% reduction yields just over a cup of finished sauce.
• Strain mixture through a fine mesh strainer to remove the solids. 

~Yield:
1 cup sauce.

Things I do in class

I'm so happy to have the baking module in school behind me.  I learned some important and usable things, but my heart is firmly on the culinary side of the fence.  I need more things on my artist palette besides eggs, butter, sugar, and flour.  Yes, I'm exaggerating but my tastes tend to the savory as opposed to the sweet.  This last week was my first week back since winter break.  I have started a new module called Cuisine Across Cultures. At the start of any new class I go through a time where it takes me a bit to adjust to the new kitchen and the new chef.  This last week we had two production days to put in practice some of the things we learned about salt and other spices.

We made Gravlax which is a Nordic dish of salt cured salmon.  Basically what you do is bury a piece of salmon in a mixture of salt, sugar, and dill and then compress it for three days.  I like it and hope to do up a fresh batch of salt crusted bagels with cream cheese, capers, and dill.

What I love most about this new class is I get to play with some really great ingredients.  It inspires me.  I have a passion fo the "traditional" foods of every country and want to try them all.  In class Thursday we were learning the flavor profiles of South America, Asia, and the Middle East.  I had worked out a timeline to present each of these dishes as a single plate, but my class team all pitched in and we batched up the sauce making to make it possible to have it all come together at once.  This is what I produced.

Beef Chimmichurri, Quail Yakitori, and Scallops Charmoula

 The Scallops Charmoula was my favorite.  It's of Moroccan origin.  North African and Middle Eastern cuisines have captured my attention lately.

Turkey Assulted with Sushi Mat! News at 11.

Whenever I go home for the holidays the topic of conversation inevitably turns to food.  I made it known that I'm fond of sushi.  Dad said "yuk".  I asked him when the last time he ever had sushi was.  His reply? "Never".  I think many people carry an aversion to sushi without ever trying it because they associate it with being  raw fish.  It MAY be raw fish but it certainly doesn't limit what can be done.  I can't make anyone like something they are set against and unwilling to try.  That exchange got me thinking.  I really enjoy the simple and subtle flavors of traditional Japanese sushi, but that isn't all I like about it.  I also like to experience the ritual of sushi which to me is sharing artfully arranged mouthfuls of delicious simple food.  

Gobble Gobble Roll, with Miso Soup

If there is one thing I want to do in my life it is to introduce people to food and cuisines I find wondrous.  Introducing the Gobble Gobble roll V1.0. I know my Dad and I both share a love for traditional turkey dinner. What about a doing a sushi riff on turkey dinner?  This isn't production quality yet, but was a fun concept to play around with. 

SHARI

Sushi Rice:

2 C Arborio Rice, rinsed until water runs clear
2 C Cold water
2 T Rice vinegar
2 T Sugar
1/2 t Salt
~ Prepare on stove top.  Season the rice at the last minute before making the rolls.

NETA
Roast Turkey Breast:
cut, 1/4 square sticks with grain

Roasted Parsnips:

2 Whole Parsnips (peeled, cut battonet)
2 T Sesame oil
1/2 t Ground sage
1/2 t Dry Rosemary (crushed)
1/2 t Kosher Salt
1/4 t Ground black pepper
~ Combine above ingredients in a bowl, mixing to coat evenly.  Transfer to baking sheet.  Roast at 350F til soft.

 Red Bell Pepper pickles:

2 Whole Sweet red bell pepper (cut julienne)
1/2 t Alder smoked salt
1 t Brown sugar
1 t White wine vinegar
1 t Dried basil (crushed)
~ Combine above ingredients in a bowl, mixing to coat evenly.  Cover and refrigerate til ready to assemble.
Fresh Basil
~cut, chiffonade

ASSEMBLY
Toasted sesame seeds
Nori (2/3 of whole sheet)

PLATING

Teriyaki glaze:

~Kikkoman brand

Cranberry Chutney:

~pureed and strained, (Separate recipe post)

Tasting notes:
OK, but not great.  Maybe a little weird.
Re Shari: 

• Not happy with the bite of the rice vinegar.  Maybe Umeboshi vinegar instead?
• Arborio rice worked well for texture but a seasoned poultry stock instead of the water/vinegar mix might bridge inharmonious flavor differences. 
• The sweetness of the rice stands in nice opposition to the bitter notes of the nori and parsnips.  Perhaps brown sugar to refine it?  Maybe a hint of molasses?
• This is the biggest flaw of the dish and needs the most improvement.  Would like to see something closer to "stuffing" in flavor.

Re Neta:

• Turkey breast left over from Christmas dinner cooked by someone else was used.  Brining and classic roasting would enhance flavor profile. 
• The Parsnips turned out well on their own but I'm unsure they are the correct vegetable choice.  It did complimented the nori nicely.  Maybe sweet potatoes?

Re Sauces:

• Cran/Raspberry Chutney puree was good for flavor - but mixture needs to be thinned to ease plating.  Add salt TT.
• Commercial Teriyaki baste/glaze.  Not quite right.  I'm thinking a pan Jus might be a nice breakaway alternative to bring harmony to the dish.